Kauai: A tropical star

Melanie Chambers / Culpeper Star Exponent
Published: May 2, 2007

Kauai has starred in movies for decades, from South Pacific in the 1950s to most recently King Kong.

Kauai's star qualities are towering sea cliffs, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific (Waimea Canyon), Hawaii's only navigable rivers, hundreds of waterfalls, fabulous flora, and 43 white sand beaches. Its breathtaking tropical beauty has drawn people there since Captain Cook visited the island in 1778. Kauai dances to a different drummer, it doesn't have the glitz and glamour of Honolulu and Waikiki. No hotels can be taller than a palm tree, few traffic lights are found, and there are no multilane freeways. This is definitely an island where the pace is slow, the old Hawaiian way!

Sun-drenched Poipu Beach area is the preferred place to stay, rather than the windy/rainy Princeville/Hanalei area. The latter is very tropical and beautiful, certainly worth a visit, but you want to be in a sunny place with a good, safe beach. Poipu offers four to six star hotels and numerous good condo resorts.

Good restaurants, shopping and golf are all readily available.
Your first day on Kauai could be spent stepping back in time at Kilohana Plantation, a working sugar plantation with an estate home dating from 1935. You have the choice of touring this historic plantation by a recently restored narrow-gauge railroad with steam engine, or by horse-drawn coach with Clydesdale horses. Leave time for the mansion and its lovely rooms, now boutiques and galleries. Head west towards Waimea town to explore the ruins of a czar's Pacific dream at Russian Fort Elizabeth State Historical Park. Built in 1816 and named for the wife of Czar Alexander I of Russia, it's now one impressive pile of stones.

Waimea Canyon Lookout will provide you with spectacular panorama views of the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" and is a short drive from the fort. Here, three tributary canyons converge in a splendor of deep gorges and red-rock buttes carved by the Waimea River 3,567 feet below. Look to the left for the 800-foot plunge of Waipo'o Falls. Continue on to Koke'e State Park in the cool upland, and have lunch at Koke'e Lodge.

Koke'e is laced with hiking trails to explore the canyon, coast and upland forest, home to some of the most unusual birds and flora in the world. On your hike you will experience rainbows, 10- foot tall ferns, perfumed air from the mokihana tree, and calls from rare birds. Head to Hanapepe, an old Hawaiian town that has become a hangout for artists, on Friday nights when the galleries and boutiques celebrate with food, wine and music.

Day two head for Lihue, the island capital, for a visit to the Kauai Museum, it has an outstanding collection of Hawaiian artifacts. Kauai was the only island not conquered by King Kamehameha the Great. It voluntarily joined his kingdom. At the museum you can view royal gowns, Hawaiian quilts, and old photos and in the gift shop you can purchase unique locally made crafts. Adventurous folk will want to head for Outfitters Kauai, at the edge of the Wailua River, to rent a kayak, cooler, and get maps marked with swimming holes and a trail to Hidden Falls. Even the novice paddler can handle the calm waters of this river. If you would prefer to just sit back and watch the scenery go by, without the work of paddling, you might take a boat trip on the Wailua River to the Fern Grotto, made famous in Elvis Presley's "Blue Hawaii". If time permits, a late afternoon surfing lesson or sunset cruise at Poipu, might round out the day nicely.

In part two we will explore the northern coast of Kauai, seeking new adventures, and viewing cliffs that seem to rise straight from the sea.

Melanie Chambers, CTC, is a travel consultant for Battlefield Travel in downtown Culpeper. She can be reached at 825-1393 or .